Stockholm
-- Port of Stockholm
Oslo
Copenhagen
--Port of Copenhagen
Scandinavia: Land of Tradition
By P W Mooney
Scandinavia is very much in the spotlight this year as part of the growing popularity of Northern Europe and Baltic cruises. More than 20 major cruise lines have ships visiting Scandinavian ports in the 2008 cruise season, and the number of passengers departing or arriving for turnaround cruises from Copenhagen or Stockholm are increasing each year.
Scandinavia represents the countries of Sweden, Denmark and Norway with a rich history that intertwined the nations for centuries. It is divided lengthwise by Norway and Sweden, and in the south Denmark is the natural bridge to Western Europe. Today, the countries are hereditary constitutional monarchies—similar to that of England—each with a Royal Family carrying out ceremonial duties but with no direct political power.
Recently I visited the cities of Stockholm, Oslo and Copenhagen to check out what is available for visitors during their port calls or pre- or post-cruise stays. So averaging about 36 wakeful hours in each city, here is what I found.
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Stockholm: Blending the Old with the New
Often described as “the City that floats on water,” Stockholm lies among 14 islands located between Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea. To the east lies the beautiful archipelago with its 30,000 islands and skerries. To the west are the more sheltered shores of Lake Mälaren with a cultural heritage stretching back to the time of the Vikings. The city is crisscrossed by 57 bridges and surrounded by a wealth of park settings. Today’s Stockholm is a chic cosmopolitan capital smoothly blending the old with the new. It was founded in the 13th century on the island of Stadsholmen, only a third of the modern city’s size today. Additional land in the old town was reclaimed by engineering.
Because of its strategic placement on the Baltic, cruising has become an important avenue to visiting the city. Cruising through the archipelago made up of 24,000 small islands, into the city is a unique experience. To accommodate the growing number of turnaround cruises, the city opened a brand new cruise terminal for departing/arriving passengers this year. There are also two other piers closer to the center of the city where smaller ships can dock on port calls.
In recent years, cruises from Stockholm have taken a big leap forward and the city is revitalizing the neighboring industrial area abutting the major cruise terminal to make it more pleasing to visitors. A smaller cruise terminal close to the new Abba Museum, also due to open in 2009, will be finished. And there is a dedicated Cruise Lounge for ship passengers on day visits situated at Nordiska Kristall shop at Kungsgatan in the center of the city where sightseeing cruise visitors can take a rest with a free beverage.
The city is an easy town to get around and the Stockholm City Pass makes it a breeze to use public transportation by land or by water. The pass also allows entry into 75 museums and other attractions around the city. Though pricey, the pass is really a money saver in the long run.
Swedes are most affable to visitors—and they all speak English! City streets are clean, and the restaurants provide first-class native dishes as well as nouvelle cuisine done with a Swedish flair. Stockholm boasts seven Michelin-star eateries and countless dishes of herring and salmon to whet the appetite. And what is a visit to Sweden without a taste of smorgasbjord? Numerous restaurants offer the Swedish specialty.
Walk down by the waterside and try lunch at one of the numerous restaurants dotting the dockside abutting the Old City. I ate at the Melanders Fisk (http://www.melandersfisk.se/Skeppsbron.htm ) and got a special treat when Le Ponant’s cruise ship Le Diamant docked literally in front of the restaurant. Another totally offbeat restaurant serving updated traditional Swedish food was the Carl Michael restaurant located directly across for Grona Lund, the city’s amusement park in Djurgarden. Named after the 18th century Swedish troubadour, the
Herring dish at Carl Michael
restaurant offers unique native dishes—try the tasty three varieties of herring appetizer served in separate covered dishes and the stuffed-cabbage-with-ligonberries entrée.
No where in the city will one not feel at home. And since English is used in tandem with Swedish—it’s compulsory for youths to learn the language from Grade One—there are no language barriers to hinder enjoyment of this lovely city. And you will.
My list of must-see sites include:
The Old City (Gamla Stan) with its uneven narrow cobblestone streets winding by old oddly shaped buildings and the Royal Palace/Kungliga Slottet (www.kungahuset.se) dating back to the 18th century (the original palace circa 13th century was destroyed by fire in 1697) forms a quadrangle around a cobbled central courtyard that encloses a garden terrace and juts out toward the water front. On the west side the changing of the Guard takes place daily while the 608-room palace is where the King and Queen have their offices and state functions are held. The Royal Treasury (Skattkammaren) displays the Royal symbols of power as well as the crown jewels while the Royal Armory (Livrustkammare)n displays state coaches, armor and coronation attire.
Close to the Palace complex, visit the 13th century Stockholm Lutheran Cathedral (Storkyrkan) which was Sweden’s only parish church in the Middle Ages and contains one of Northern Europe’s finest examples of medieval sculpture, the wood sculpture of
Stockholm cathedral in Old Town
St. George and the Dragon. Before leaving the plaza (Slottsbacken) that slopes down to the waterside, take a photo or two of the lovely museums across the water and visit the hidden-away little boy iron sculpture in a small courtyard called Bollhustäppan just off the plazawhere legend has it that if you leave
Little boy sculpture off Slottsbacken
a penny and rub the sculpture’s head, your wish to return to Stockholm will be granted—sort of a Swedish version of Copenhagen’s famed Little Mermaid statue.
A short walk down a winding street south from the plaza is the city’s Great Square
Great Square in the Old Town
(Stortorget) the site of the Stockholm Bloodbath when nearly 90 people were beheaded or hung in 1520. Rimmed with 17th and 18th century-old buildings, the plaza contains the Stock Exchange (Borsen) and the Swedish Academy where the Nobel Prize for Literature is announced. The Nobel Museum (www.nobelmuseet.se) which presents the history of the prize and the laureates is also located nearby at 2 Storforget in the old city.
City Hall /Stadshuset (http://www.stockholm.se/-/English/The-City-Hall), Stockholm’s most famous landmark sitting prominently on the northern shore of Lake Mälaren is one of Sweden’s foremost examples of “national romanticism.” Take a tour of the red-brick building (eight million bricks were used). You will be amazed with the grandiose Blue Hall so named because originally its red bricks were to be painted blue but the architect changed his mind and painted them red.
The Blue Hall
However, the name stuck. Here the annual winners of the Nobel Prizes (except the Peace Prize) are feted annually. The hall contains a 10,000-pipe organ while a majestic marble staircase winds up to the Golden Hall, so called because of its 18.6 million gold-and-glass-mosaic cubes depicting Byzantine-style scenes of important Swedish historical events and personages. City Hall’s tower rises 348 feet, giving visitors grand views of the city. You can walk the 365 steps to the top or take the elevator half way and walk the rest.
You can take a day boat trip from Stadshuskajen (the City Hall Quay) between May and October or land transport to visit the Drottningholm Palace (www.kungahuset.se ), often referred to as the Versailles of the North. Built in the 1600’s, the well-preserved
Photo by Kungliga Hovstaterna
Drottningholm Palace
palace, located on the outskirts of the city on the island of Lövon on Lake Mälaren, is on UNESCO´s World Heritage list. The palace is the present Royal Family's permanent residence—Sweden has had a monarchy for over a millennium—who reside in the southern wing of the palace. Guided tours are available for parts of the palace. On the beautifully landscaped grounds, there is also the famous Court Theatre that is still very active today with its dramatic productions. An ornate red Chinese Pavilion containing one of the finest European rococo interiors with chinoiserie is close by.
The Vasa Museum/Vasamuseet ( www.vasamuseet.se ) features the top-heavy Vasa warship that sank on her maiden voyage in 1628. Built in 1625 for King Gustaf II Adolf,
The Vasa warship
who was seeking to gain control of the Baltic, it took more than two years to construct the vessel. Some three hundred years later, in 1961, she was salvaged. Vasa was remarkably preserved because of low salinity in the brackish Stockholm harbor waters and the deep layer of mud covering the oak-wood vessel. But it took some 20 years to refurbish the vessel and the process is still ongoing. Several levels in the museum allow viewers to admire the sculpted wood ornamentation (700 carved sculptures) on the ship at different angles while accompanying exhibits provide insight in the preservation operation. One exhibit offers viewers a closeup of some of the voyagers based on skeletal findings when the ship was excavated.
Skansen (www.skansen.se)—Located in the royal park of Djurgärden, the world’s largest open-air museum at 600-plus acres takes visitors back in time to a rural pre-industrial Sweden. Founded in 1891, it presents 150 preserved structures that reflect Swedish life as lived in various regions of the country. There is a little town where one can see how trades people worked and lived, lovely gardens filled with native flora and lots of bird ponds. Still a working farm, visitors can also see both domestic livestock and native wildlife—when I visited, a mother wolverine was nursing her babies in a hidden away area of the complex.
Mid-summer night’s revelry
You can easily spend a day back in history at Skansen as there are several restaurants and shops displaying native crafts. During the important mid-summer’s night festival re-enacted each year in mid-June, participants learn to make floral head wreaths, as I did during my visit for a mock festival—I was a week early for the real event—listen to the folk music as traditional-garbed dancers circle the maypole, and later indulge in a taste of smorgasbord.
For a bird’s eye view of Stockholm and the archipelago, visit the Telecommunications Tower/Kaknästornet (www.kaknastornet.se ) in Lådugardsgärdet that offers spectacular views at 509 feet up. When I was there at sunset, one could see the cruise ships and ferries winding through the archipelago for places beyond—truly a mesmerizing sight while sipping a cocktail or an espresso. (A restaurant is also on the premises)
Stockholm has more than 100 museums to suit all tastes. Worth a visit are the National Museum/ (www.nationalmuseum.se ) the country’s leading museum of fine art
and design, with collections of paintings and sculpture, drawings, engravings, applied art and modern design including works by Sweden’s foremost painters as well as
Nobel Museum in the Old Town
Rembrandt, Rubens, Goya, Renoir, Degas and Gauguin. The Modern Museum/Moderna Museet (www.modernamuseet.se ) presents exhibitions of modern and contemporary art.
If time allows, visit the historic village of Sigtuna (www.sigtuna.se ) about 40 minutes outside Stockholm (accessible by train). On the shore of Lake Mälaren, the town was Sweden’s first capital and also the country’s first Christian center in medieval times. But its history dates further back to time of the Vikings in 980 AD when it was founded.
The Town Hall
Today, wooden buildings dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries dot the village while its meandering main street is built over the original route based on the original city plan of 980 AD. A museum displays Viking and medieval artifacts found at Sigtuna, while
Ruin of 12th century church
ruins of three stone churches date back to the 1100s can be explored.
A lovely floating restaurant called Bäthuset just outside the village on Lake Mälaren offers the finest cuisine I tasted during my stay in Sweden.
Families will want to head to Djurgärden, an area in Ekoparken (Stockholm’s national city park), by ferry from Nybroplan to enjoy Gröna Lunds amusement park (www.gronalund.se ) with its 25 exciting rides and entertaining shows. Close by is the Aquaria water museum (www.aquaria.se ) that displays living ecosystems such as a,
Coral reef at the aquarium
South American rainforest, and Nordic water environments and the water denizens inhabiting them.
A visit to Djurgärden would not be complete without seeing Junibacken(www.junibacken.se)
Fun time at Junibacken
children’s literary characters (remember Pippi Longstocking?). A story train provides a magical ride into the author’s assorted story characters and there are lots of other fun things to do.
Many of Stockholm’s museums also hold special children’s events while most restaurants offer children’s menus at reduced prices.
Getting There
Stockholm Arlanda Airport is the gateway for international flights. Highly recommended for your entry from the US is SAS Airlines. Highly efficient, clean, with personable personnel, it is a marked difference from its American counterparts. Check out SAS Premium Economy for extra leg room with a leg rest or Business class with its sleeper seating. Website: www.sas.com.
Other airlines flying in from North America include Icelandair, Delta Airlines and Continental Airlines,
To reach the city, there is a frequent express train—a 20-minute ride— running from the airport to Central Station in downtown Stockholm.
InterEuropean train service is excellent and a good way to reach Stockholm from other European points. Before leaving on your trip from North America or other points, be sure to purchase the Scandinavian Rail Pass from Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com ) for discounted fares for traveling among the Scandinavian countries and Finland.
Passenger/car ferries also travel to Stockholm from other northern Europe or Baltic countries (http://www.stockholmtown.com/templates/page____6092.aspx )
And if by cruise ship is your preferred way to travel, check out http://www.stockholmtown.com/templates/page____14932.aspx and click ships in port to see what cruise lines visit Stockholm between April and October. Some of the cruise lines doing port calls or turnarounds in 2008 include Royal Caribbean International, Regent Seven Seas, Silversea Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Oceania Cruises, Holland America. AIDA Cruises, Costa Cruise Lines and MSC Cruises.
Getting Around
The best card to have is The Stockholm Card or SLO’ Tourist card for unlimited travel
on public transport, free admission to 75 museums and attractions as well select free sightseeing by boat as well as several other bonus offers. Cards are available for 24, 48 or 72 hours use and three youth cards can be purchased per adult card. The card comes with an informative guidebook detailing all the venues where you can use your card. To purchase a card on line, visit www.stockholmtown.com/stockholmcard
Land tours, private or public, are also available. City Sightseeing offers 90-minute tours of Stockholm in its comfortable modern buses. Departures from Gustav Adolfs Square. Website: www.citysightseeing.com
Taxis are readily available and can be paid by credit card or local currency. Other ways to sightsee is by tour bus, and by boat with the Royal Canal Tour and the Historical Canal Tour—your Stockholm Card is accepted.
For a very informative guide to what’s going on in Stockholm, pick up a copy of What’s On, which gives detailed information on places to visit, entertainment and weekly events and lots of other useful information. Available at the Cruise Terminal, hotels and the Stockholm Tourist Centre (open daily) located at Sweden House, Hamngatan 27, Kungsträdgärden.
A dedicated Cruise Lounge (www.nordiskakristall.se ) for ship passengers on tour is situated at the Nordiska Kristall l shop at Kungsgatan in the center of the city where cruise visitors can take a break from sightseeing—just show your cruise-ship ID card. Free coffee or tea offered.
Currency:
The Swedish krona (SEK)
Hotels
Stallmastaregarden in Royal Park of Haga
One of Stockholm’s newest inns, the 49-room establishment overlooks Brunnsvikenat bay within the 18th century Royal Park of Haga. Parts of the inn date back to the mid-1600’s when it was part of a farm often visited by royalty. Downtown Stockholm is about ten minutes away by taxi and public transportation is conveniently nearby. The hotel’s restaurant is popular with the locals offering fine international cuisine and classic Swedish fare with a modern twist. Unfortunately, despite the charm, there is a great deal of road construction abutting the property which leads to a less than peaceful atmosphere during the day. Ask for a quiet room facing the lovely inner courtyard with country gardens. Just steps away from the hotel, there is a jogging trail along the lake in the Royal Park. Website: www.stallmastaregarden.se
Grand Hotel
The five-star hotel is situated on the city’s waterfront overlooking the
Royal Palace and the Old Town and is a favorite with cruise goers. Until August 12, the hotel is offering accommodation from SEK 1 790 per double room per night and single rooms from SEK 1 490 per night. Close to the Kungliga Djurgården (Royal Zoological Gardens), Opera House, National Museum, and Modern Museum. Website: http://www.grandhotel.se/in_english/default.asp
Radisson SAS SkyCity Hotel
The hotel is located at Stockholm-Arlanda Airport, situated between terminals four and five. The full-service hotel is a convenient destination for those boarding early morning flights or arriving late in the evening. The rooms, which overlook the pedestrian passageway connecting the two terminals, are quite comfortable and quiet. Fitness Center on the premises. Full breakfast. Reservations can be made at reservations.skycity.stockholm@radissonsas.com. Website: www.radissionsas.com
Nordic Sea Hotel
The Absolute Ice Bar
This four-star, 367-room hotelis located in the center of the city at Vassaplan 4. It features the world’s first permanent Absolute Ice Bar where the temperature is a constant -5 degrees Celsius/23 degrees Farenheight. The entire interior is carved of ice. Gloves are provided. Website: www.nordicseahotel.com
Radisson SAS Royal Viking Hotel
The hotel is situated near the Central Station where the 20-minute non-stop train ride from the airport arrives. Close to Old Town and shopping. Its Sky Bar gives sweeping, panoramic views of Stockholm. Website: www.radissionsas.com
Helpful Websites:
Stockholm website: www.stockholmtown.com
Stockholm Tourist Centre Sverigehuset (Sweden House), Hamngatan 27
Entrance Kungsträdgården. Email: info@svb.stockholm.se
Internet Map of Stockholm: http://www.stockholmtown.com/templates/page____15265.aspx
Cruise Sweden Website: www.cruisestockholm.com
CruiseBaltic Website: http://www.cruisebaltic.com
Photos by PW Mooney and VisitSweden.
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More information on Scandinavia at
Stockholm
Port of Stockholm
Copenhagen
Port of Copenhagen
