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MSC Opera

‘MSC Opera’:  A Cruise Ship With An Italian Ambience

By P W  Mooney

MSC Cruises’ MSC Opera made her debut in 2004 and has been operating cruises in both the Mediterranean and in the Caribbean. As the sister ship to the MSC Lirica, the 59,058 ton Opera can hold 1,756 passengers, 176 more than MSC Lirica, and Opera also has a 52 percent increase in cabins with a balcony (130 to 198).

MSC Cruises is a cruise line, albeit young, that has plenty of energy and tries to emulate the passion of things Italian in food and customs. So when you take a cruise on this ship, while most of your ship companions may be from the US in Caribbean waters, you get an Italian feel—whether it is in the dining experience or the entertainment—though adjusted to American tastes.

Interested in things Italian, in late January, I took a seven-day cruise on the MSC Opera that sailed out of Ft Lauderdale on an eastern Caribbean itinerary—San Juan, PR; St. Maarten; the Dominican Republic ports of La Romana and Cayo Levantado. (Click My MSC Opera’s Seven-Day Caribbean Itinerary for the details.)  And here is what I found.

After a near flawless flight to Ft. Lauderdale on Jet Blue Airways, I found my airport transfer van and soon I was off to the port. Unfortunately as the terminal MSC Cruises usually uses was heavily damaged when Hurricane Wilma hit last fall, the ship had been forced to use a substitute docking area temporarily. This somewhat delayed what would have been a smooth check-in process as a makeshift security system near the building entry dictated that passengers line up outside the building to go through security.

Accommodations

Once off the gangway, after a long wait to be processed since I arrived at peak check-in time, I was met by a white-gloved steward who took my hand luggage and escorted me to my stateroom where a bottle of bubbly in an ice bucket awaited. Nice touch to begin a cruise.

My Category 10 balcony cabin was located on Norma deck—one of nine passenger decks named after famous operas composed by Verdi and Puccini. The cabin measuring 140 square feet was comfortable though small. Storage space was also at a minimum and I would like to have seen more drawers. There was a convertible queen-size bed, a small vanity area, a satellite television, a minibar, and a room safe. The balcony had two chairs and a small table. The shower-only bathroom was cramped but furnished with nice towels and toiletries and the hair dryer was conveniently placed on the wall beside the basin vanity.

At night beds were turned down and the ship’s program for the next day placed there. I could not have been happier with cabin stewards Eugenie and Laurel, both from Madagascar, who have worked for MSC Cruises for several years.

Opera’s deluxe balcony suites (Category 11) are about 75 percent larger and feature a sitting area, a walk-in closet and Internet capability. Bathrooms have a tub.

The ocean-view cabins and inside cabins are about the same size as my Category 10 stateroom and feature the same amenities.

For the disabled, there are five staterooms measuring a total of 240 square feet. And for families, there are two family-size suites available but these accommodations are without a balcony.

Dining

La Caravella is one of two main dining rooms that seats 618 guests while the smaller L’Approdo restaurant with a fushia color décor seats 380 guests who occupy suites. (Non-suite passengers can request a table there on a reservations basis.) There are two sittings for dinner and guests are assigned their table for the cruise on the first day though, the maitre d’hotel tries to honor any passenger request for a time or table change.

The food served offers a wide choice of Italian dishes representing the different areas of Italy. Many of the wines served (at extra charge) are also Italian and often from the region represented by the dishes offered. Each night I was offered a different risotto from the seven-course menu—a mushroom risotto one evening, a pumpkin risotto with truffle oil another—and all were delicious. Pastas, such as Piedmontese-style gnocchi, farfalle with grilled vegetables and Sienese Pecorino cheese, or Emilian-style baked lasagna were equally as good and were offered with other international or American dishes.  The American-style cuisine faltered when it came to some of the grilled-meat entrées designed to please American tastes, which differ from their European cousins.  I learned that Italians prefer pasta or fish dishes and not as much meat on their menus, and smaller portions. And they like to linger longer at the table. Opera’s culinary staff adjusts the menu to better please the American palette when the ship is sailing in the Caribbean, with more emphasis on meat and American-style pastas and pizzas and more variety in the offerings.                                                             

Le Vele Cafeteria was the Lido-styled area serving a selection of hot and cold foods. The 380-seat cafeteria is crowded at peak times and the lines circling both sides of the major buffet station could be slow. I found it noisy and somewhat chaotic at breakfast and opted for La Caravella or room service. Having only one major food station on an 1800-passenger vessel does not work. Instead several stations placed around a dining area would help to prevent gridlock and hopefully that problem will be corrected on MSC’s newbuilds.

Outside Le Vele was Il Patio, a large outdoor dining area offering grilled foods and pizzas at lunch; and other refreshments during the day. There was no table service in this area; and annoying to many passengers were the tiny paper cups used for beverages or the lack of salt and pepper shakers on the tables.

At midnight there is a buffet served at the different dining venues such as the Pastry Buffet at out on the pool deck, or snacks or finger foods served in the lounges. But on the next to the last night on the cruise, there was the Buffet Magnifique that took place in the kitchen galleys. The display was truly magnifique and very tempting to this person, who had dined only two hours earlier.

Room service is available around the clock but the selections are limited to snacks or sandwiches and beverages. Continental-style breakfast is also available in your cabin or at the Aroma Coffee bar if you are a late riser. The bar had a nice selection of specialized coffee and tea beverages and assorted pastries throughout the day.

Public Areas

The ship’s public areas are tastefully decorated with lots of marble and wood worked into the interior design scheme along with Italian-designed minimalist furniture to give openness to the interior space. Public lounges and areas flow smoothly into each other, allowing easy accessibility for passengers.

The spacious Teatro dell’Opera is the place for after-dinner shows, performed twice nightly by a very talented European troupe. The comfortable multi-tiered theater with deep-blue plush seats and unimpeded views of the stage provides a nice venue for the presentations. Guests on different nights were treated to off-beat variety shows—one featured Sanders, a Belgium magician with his guest, a python encircling his body while another show presented its version of Cirque du Soleil. A live semiclassical music show one evening was so popular with the passengers, there was a repeat performance several days later and that was packed as well. One enthused ship guest described the musicale as a true Italian-style show that was magnifico!

I had a backstage group tour of the theater which is located forward on the ship. Backstage, we learned how difficult it is to perform when seas are rough but the show must go on. We saw the tight spaces the performers had to maneuver in for their many costume changes, and how the scenery is handled for the shows. The performers are hired by Ars Media Productions in Milan and usually sign a six-month contract. The shows on this cruise were tailored more for Americans, the cruise director told us, and are somewhat different when the ship is cruising in the Mediterranean.

The ship had other lovely areas, many with soft-color themes and smooth lines, but with a definite Italian flourish. The Reception Desk and foyer area was a complex of richly sandblasted crystal, marble inlays and artistically decorated mirrors giving space and light to an area that is the focal point of the ship. Choices used to decorate the public areas throughout the ship were in good taste with spotless brass railings and trims along with light colored walls and marble floors gave me a feeling of clean this ship was. And even though there were nearly 2000 passengers on board, most areas did not feel crowded.

Located next to La Caravella, the Piazza di Spagna was a lovely lounge area for an after-dinner drink and some semiclassical music by a talented East European trio. The violinist was a versatile master of the violin, playing lovely renditions of musical favorites with his dexterous handling of the instrument.

The Caruso Lounge’s cabaret or improvised entertainment bordering at times on the risqué—perhaps that is European style—was popular. The entertainment team headed by nonstop dynamo Daniela hosted a different event each evening after the variety show ended in the Teatro. One night it was a Pick Mr. Opera contest when several male volunteers vying for the title were put through a series of funny antics that ended with their stripping down to their underwear. I missed Pick Ms Opera held the previous evening and I can only imagine the antics.

The semi-circular Byblos disco high up on La Boheme deck had a mauve color scheme with shiny steel columns and surround glass windows. While it was rocking away in the late hours of the night, it seemed underused and very quiet during the day and early evening hours except for the occasional teen-only dance parties.  

Other lounges included the Cotton Club, decorated with a gold and black geometric color scheme, was a popular with guests throughout the cruise; as was the Sottovento Pub done up in a purplish geometrical design where meetings or other events can be held.

The Internet Center had ten computers and a printer set up in the semicircular area next to the La Cabala Piano Bar. The computers’ access to the Internet if you were an AOL user went through AOL’s UK site which caused frustration at times and dial up was slow. The rate for the first 10 minutes is $6 and each subsequent minute 60 cents on Caribbean cruises. It could become pricey so bring your laptop as there are now Wi-Fi hot spots in different public areas.

The Library and card room had a selection of books and magazines to choose from.

The Monte Carlo Casino was fitted with gaming tables—roulette, black jack, poker— and a limited number of slot machines. Some machines seemed to spill out the quarters to its users—spotting one, I placed several quarters in it and actually won $50.

The Via Condotti or the shopping area had some nice wares. One offered Italian sportswear as well as MSC branded clothing. I found the prices to be reasonable but that was because much of the merchandise was discounted during my cruise. The shop to purchase duty-free liquor was offering some great bargains of well-known brands as well.

Health and Fitness

The Opera Spa is uses Balinese techniques for its facials and massages. I had the Balinese massage with stone therapy—a relaxing oil is massaged onto your body and hot stones placed on various points to relax the muscles ($145). The Spa also contains a beauty salon, where I had my hair cut ($39) by a most talented young Croatian named Nemenja, who hopes someday to work in New York. There is also a sauna, a tanning room, and Turkish bath.

Within the Spa complex is the Relaxation Room—total quiet as one reclines on a cushioned lounger and gazes through the wall of glass at the sea. Next door is the workout center with free weights and weight-training machines and treadmills. There is a small exercise area with Pilates and yoga classes offered; or you can sign up for a private session with the personal trainer.

Other Activities:

There is a 656-foot long jogging track on the deck above the pool deck. A nice eight-hole mini-golf course located in aft on Deck 13 wraps itself around the ship’s funnel area. Adjacent was a spacious sunning area. Other deck sports include shuffleboard, table tennis and table soccer.

The outdoor pool is really two pools separated by two whirl pools at the midpoint. At one end of the pool  there was an area in front of the Spinnaker Bar to accommodate such activities as dance classes, line dancing  and ping-pong tournaments; or zanier events such as a towel-ball square off, a hula-hoop session or creating a pyramid (use your imagination) or men vs women a in musical chairs contest.

Other daytime activities in the public rooms ranged from bingo and card games to Italian lessons to arts and crafts. There was bound to be some activity to please each guest.

Since this was a baseball theme cruise, there were informative sessions and clinics with some former major leaguers—two-time AL homerun king Frank Howard; NY Yankee superstar third baseman Craig Nettles; and Pirates Manager Pete Mackanin and others.

In addition to the baseball stars, Polka King Jimmy Sturr and his band were on board with a coterie of some 400 devoted fans who booked the cruise just to dance to his music. For children there is a lovely area adjacent to the Opera Spa called Buffalo Bill’s. Decorated with amusing panels especially created the Italian cartoonist Luca De Pasquale depicting a Western motif, child guests can do arts and crafts supervised by a lovely counselor who also doubles as the entertainment—when I visited the children’s room she was dressed in a bunny outfit to entertain her charges—and the night baby sitter for a fee.

For teens, there are the adult sports as well as a small video arcade just before the entrance to the Byblos Disco.

Overall Assessment

The ship is different from other mainstream ships in that it is truly an Italian-oriented vessel. There is an uncluttered feel to the vessel and most importantly the personnel on board are friendly. And she is clean.  You sense it as you walk through the ship—brass rails and fixtures shine, marble floors gleam, and cabin upkeep is quite good. Workers were constantly erasing rust spots with white paint or wiping down the decks. Hand sanitizers are placed in areas, such as the Casino, and in other public areas for guests to use. Signs abound for passengers to wash their hands in the public lavatories and it was very much in evidence in the kitchen galleys where wash your hands signs were placed everywhere.

In fact, when I was on the cruise, the ship had just received a 99 percent rating from the CDC sanitation inspection. It would have made the 100 mark, like her sister ship MSC Lirica, if it had not been for a glitch in the inspection process, such as a cleaning rag left in the wrong place.

The officers and many of the service staff are Italian. And so are the chefs. Fresh food is brought on weekly and tons of it are consumed by the cruise’s end. Nothing is left over I found out when taking an informative tour of the food storage area.

Importantly, the ship offers a more Italian approach to cruising—from the cuisine served on board to the entertainment that was provided. Public announcements are kept to a minimum and are done in five languages.

Disembarkation was efficiently executed. My color coded bags were picked up around midnight—conveniently later that many ships— and placed in the terminal pickup area the morning the ship docked. Groups were called by their color code to leave at designated times and this system helped to facilitate the ease of getting one’s luggage.

Overall, for cruisers on a budget the ship offers good value. There are 11 categories of cabins but MSC Opera offered a discounted cruise rate of $495 per person on this cruise for an inside cabin. That rate is way less that one would spend for a week’s stay at a resort—and food and entertainment are included with an Italian touch!

What’s Ahead?

MSC Cruises is a neophyte in this pressured industry. When the name MSC Cruises is mentioned, many cruisers give a quizzical look as this fast emerging cruise line is not yet on travelers’ minds. But that is quickly changing. In the next three years, MSC’s current seven-ship fleet will increase by three Panamax ships beginning with the debut of the MSC Musica in July and two post-Panamax vessels. 

Add to that the signing on as MSC Cruises official spokesperson the Academy Award–winning Italian actress Sophia Loren to reflect the new slogan for MSC as a cruise line that is “beautiful, passionate and Italian.” Just as Richard E. Sasso, president and CEO of MSC Cruises (USA) likes to point out. “[We are] a cruise line inspired by the strong personal vision and commitment of its Italian owner; richly endowed with the traditions, warmth and flair of its Italian heritage,” he says, and MSC boasts “a fleet of elegantly appointed and spacious ships offering travelers experiences that reflect the heart and soul of Italy.”

But it is a cruise line that is evolving as it continues to grow. And with that comes acquired experience translated into higher premium services aboard its ships. This summer its first major new ship built for the company—MSC Musica—will raise the bar. The 89,600-ton ship will carry 2,550 passengers (do)—about 800 more than the Opera— and a crew of 987. There will be more public areas and alternative dining options currently not available on MSC Opera and MSC Lirica. 

Guided by an ebullient CEO with unending energy and a zest for this company, I believe it will become a major ship line noted for its slightly different approach to cruising, at least in the US. It is an Italian shipping company—one that is still privately owned— and many of the amenities found on board reflect this. As Mr. Sasso repeatedly likes to point out, “we are not aiming to be the largest cruise line but the one that is most respected.” It appears that this laudable objective is well underway.

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Ship Statistics and Company History

My MSC Opera’s Seven-Day Caribbean Itinerary

2006/2007 MSC Opera/MSC Lirica Itineraries

MSC Opera’s Photo Gallery