A
well kept secret for most North Americans cruise travelers
has been the Hapag Lloyd cruise line’s deluxe Europa.
Although the flagship vessel has garnished accolades and
high ratings since her debut in 1999, she was built primarily
for the German-speaking cruise passenger accustomed to
a high standard of cruising. This year, the Hamburg-based
company aimed for a share of the North American cruise
market. Three of the line’s four ships—Europa, Hanseatic,
and C. Columbus will be introducing more bilingual
cruises. (Already the C. Columbus has been conducting
popular summer cruises on the Great Lakes since 1997.)
“We have been catering to English-speaking passengers
for some years [on three of our ships—the Europa, Hanseatic,
and C.Columbus],” says Hapag Lloyd Managing Director Sebastian
Ahrens. “And as more and more Americans are drawn to the
allure of Hapag Lloyd ships, the company is expanding
its schedule of English-language sailings to accommodate
a wider US market.”
This fall I was invited to take a short
cruise on the five-star-plus ship, when she visited America’s
East Coast ports. It was a wonderful opportunity to see
why this all-suites ship is so highly rated. I must say
that I was not disappointed and certainly left the ship
an avid fan. So, here are my observations.
Freshly refurbished, the Europa was all
that she was rated to be and even more. The 408-passenger
vessel offers an intimacy not found on the larger ships.
Yes, more quiet than on other ships, but with a refined
elegance that is present throughout the vessel. Her public
rooms are posh, have high ceilings, and a spaciousness
not often found on other ships. Her interior furnishings
reflect the finest materials and colors chosen to give
the ship an elegant but contemporary look. Even the passengers,
mostly German, were well dressed at all times. As
Ahrens points out, “Europa attracts people who want the
best of everything. They appreciate quality and the fine
details that go into making the ship the top rated.”
How does a ship retain such high ratings
consistently, I wondered? It’s because the line does
not lower its standards, even if there are times such
as post 9/11 when the cruise industry was in the doldrums,
a veteran cruiser on board told me. Despite negative earnings,
Hapag Lloyd refused to compromise and lower costs by perhaps
doing things a bit more cheaply.
Boarding the 408 passenger vessel, I walked
into a world of luxury. A glass of champagne was handed
to me as a welcome token. A cabin stewardess escorted
me to my stateroom where she made sure the accommodations
were in order. A chilled bottle of champagne awaited my
arrival as well as a plate of hors d’oeuvres.
The ship’s smallness adds to the ease of
finding one’s way on board. Each time I encountered a
crew member, during my strolls, I received a friendly
greeting in English (all crew are bilingual). The friendly
ambience on board is quite disarming and immediately,
I felt at home. After the requisite boat drill prior to
sailing, I settled in quite happily into the ship routine.
My 32-square-yard cabin was spacious and well appointed
with a queen-size bed bedecked with deluxe linens. The
sitting area, which can be curtained off, has a settee
and coffee table along with wood cabinetry and vanity/desk
table. A minibar was well stocked with juices and beer
to be imbibed at no extra cost. My sliding glass door
opened on to the balcony which had s a lounge chair, table
and two chairs.
A well-lit walk-in closet measuring about
seven feet long by three feet wide in dimension, contains
two clothes racks and a built-in armoire with such extras
as a pair of plush terrycloth robes as well as two pairs
of slippers; a clothes brush, a shoehorn, an umbrella,
and a personal safe where your room card is the key—no
code to remember. In the commodious bathroom, there was
a full tub, a separate shower stall with a ceiling-to-floor
glass door, a vanity basin with drawers and a retractable
clothes line.
The cabin’s television doubles as a TV/computer
monitor where you can watch movies (thought they are still
in German but English films will be provided shortly),
listen to audio CDs or use the keyboard to check out your
emails. (With your cruise tickets, every passenger is
provided with his or her personal email address to receive
messages or to write emails at no charge.) There is also
an outlet for a laptop connection.
At night, there was the usual turndown of
the bedcover and a chocolate morsel left on the pillow.
Next to the bed the stewardess placed a mat so as not
to dirty my feet when arising. And with conveniently placed
tensor reading lights over the bed, one can read well
into the night without disturbing your bed companion.
But the ultimate luxury was to lie snuggled in a comfy
bed with the glass door open and listening to the murmurs
of the sea as they quickly lulled you to sleep.
The wall partitions between the cabins are
sound proof. However, noise can filter in if someone is
having a conversation on the adjoining suite’s balcony
if your balcony door is open.
The ship has on her Penthouse Deck on Deck ten deluxe
suites, each served by a personal butler. The suites measure
53 square yards. In addition, there are two grand suites,
measuring 101 square yards each, which have their own
sauna, whirlpool, a second bath and a dining table for
six persons.
Two handicap-accessible staterooms are
available on Deck seven. The cabins have a non-walk-in
closet and feature electronically operated beds with hydraulic
lift. The bathroom has a roll-in shower area. In the ship’s
public areas, there is also a ramp that leads from the
Lido pool area down to the ship’s lifeboat deck.
One
of the most important criteria for this person on a ship
is the quality of the food served on board, how it is
presented, and what the table service is like. The ship
does not disappoint. The main dining room is the two-deck-high
Europa, which offers only one seating for dinner and serves
international cuisine of the highest order. The tables
are exquisitely set with high-end Dibhern China, Riedel
glassware and Robbe & Berking silverware.
The menu varies daily but it is usually
broken down into three selections: the Europa menu, which
offer native dishes for its German-speaking diners; a
varied fish menu from the River and Sea section; and a
Wellness offering of low fat and vegetarian foods. Often
the dinner menu features dishes native to the ports visited.
On this cruise, when we were in Baltimore, there was a
“Fresh from Baltimore” selection of pan-fried or poached
flounder served with a curry sauce and chili potatoes
and spinach.
Although portions are small (about three
or four bites), they are delicious and artistically presented.
And diners can order as many selections they wish from
the menu.
One evening I had the boiled Prime Beef
with assorted vegetables served with a chive sauce. For
dessert it was a tart of chocolate mouse draped with a
passion-fruit sauce. Another night it was a scallop dish
with lobster sauce and saffron crostini for an entrếe.
There is a good wine list to choose from
but more moderate table wines, which, to my surprise,
were not included in the cruise price, are also available.
If wine by the glass is your preference, the beverage
is served in a small carafe that is set on a small tray
and poured for you. Europeans prefer to drink bottled
water at the table and it is suggested by your waiter
for a modest fee.
Two small restaurants where reservations must be made,
but at no additional cost, face each other just before
the entrance to the Europa dining room. One, the Venezia,
serves a six-course dinner with such dishes as Risotto
Mille e una Notte and Sogliola ai Pepperoni
(Dover sole with pepper and potato cake). Another choice
on one evening was Faraona ai Funghi (Guinea fowl
with cepes and rosemary potatoes. The dinner concludes
with a cheese assortment and an Italian dessert such as
Tiramisu with fresh berries.
Across from the Venezia is the Oriental
restaurant serving a wide variety of Indian, Chinese,
Thai and Japanese dishes in an Asian setting. One night
was devoted to an assortment of curried dishes. But one
can also order sushi or sashimi, or a variety of Indian
or Thai cuisine as well. I was not able to get a reservation
there since this small dining venue is quite popular.
However, it was arranged beforehand with the maitre’d
from the Europa dining room to be served sushi at dinner
one evening.
Then there is the informal Café Lido which
serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner to candlelight for
those passengers wishing not to dress for dinner. Some
of the dinner selections were identical to what was being
served in the main dining room that evening.
 Since
breakfast tends to be my favorite repast of the day, I
thoroughly enjoyed starting the day at the Lido. (Breakfast
is also served more formally in the Europa restaurant
in addition to room service.) A vast assortment of cereals,
fruits, German meats, smoked salmon and a variety of German-
and American style breads and pastries are offered. And
because this was a cruise visiting US ports, an American-style
breakfast was also offered.
There are no lines for your favorite egg
dish or hot cereal. A waiter takes your order where it
is prepared in the Lido kitchen and delivered to your
table. Request a croissant as well and it arrives tucked
into a linen bib to keep it warm. My omelets were delicately
prepared and delicious. Coffee and tea were also served
by my table attendant. No sugar packets here-just a china
sugar bowl and cream/milk in a miniature pitcher.
 As
you dine in the different areas, you notice details not
found on other ships. To name a few, there are linen doilies
on your chargers at dinner. Your coffee or tea is served
with a paper doily underneath the cup to catch the spill.
The butter squares come in a silver bowl. Salt and pepper
mills are on the table, and still the waiter asks if you
wish some freshly ground pepper from his large wooden
pepper mill.
The wait staff is above board in attentiveness
to your needs. And if you desire a special dish, it is
possible to order it in advance for dinner that night.
In all, the dining on board the Europa is superb: the
wait staff is very attentive; and, of course, the food
is consistently top rate.
The raves don’t stop at the dining rooms.
While swimming and then sunning one afternoon at the Magradome
pool, a pool attendant inquired if I wished to be served
Belgian waffles with Bing cherries with a dollop of ice
cream. Of course I did and thoroughly enjoyed the waffle
treat I was served. (You also have a choice of ice cream
served with a liqueur sauce.)
And if dining in the public eye is not your
style, there is 24 hour room service. A wide array of
dishes are offered at no extra cost and served in proper
style.
 After
dinner, there are diversions to entertain the passengers.
While there may not be a Casino on board nor a Broadway-style
revue, quieter but entertaining pursuits are at hand.
There are lectures and film screenings in the Europa auditorium
as well as musical recitals. With a slopping floor and
a u-shaped configuration, passengers at the tables get
an unhindered view of the stage. There is also a dance
floor before the stage. Occasionally a musical revue is
presented or local talent entertains the audience when
the ship is in port. On my cruise, the entertainers included
cellist Julian Lloyd Webber (brother of Andrew) and his
bossa nova band, lyric soprano Joyce DiDonato who will
be making her Metropolitan Opera debut in 2005, and the
German Juri Urbanek band offered foot-tapping music for
dancing to favorite oldies. Another night, a Gospel vocal
group in Charleston came on board to entertain us with
southern folk songs a cappella.
Other haunts include the Havanna bar where
one can light up a stokie and ponder life in a haze. Or
visit the Clipper Bar to listen to some lively jazz. It’s
also the place to get a late night snack of German sausages.
The hot spot to be before retiring is Sansibar,
located in aft on Belvedere deck. Named after the Sansibar
watering hole on the North Sea island of Sylt, it offers
great camaraderie and dancing to hip music along with
soothing sea breezes from the bar’s terrace. And then
there is this personable bartender, a veteran of the original
Sansibar on Sylt, serving your drinks, who personifies
what the place is all about.
 The
ship has other lounges, one of the most popular being
the piano bar located just off the seven-deck-high Atrium
where you are entertained to cocktail piano music, a good
place to meet before dinner. On formal nights, handsome
Captain Hagen Damaschke holds sway in the adjoining seven-deck
Atrium area, greeting guests and having his photo taken
with them. Formal nights also mean that the hotel crew
dons black tie and tails and other special uniforms to
add to the festivity.
Café Belevdere forward serves tea in the afternoon. Thirty
varieties of tea are offered—no tea bags—steeped in mini
teapots and brought to your table. Coffee and liqueur
coffees are also served. There are also tea sandwiches
and just yummy pastries—some of the best I have tasted
outside of Paris.
Bibliophiles will enjoy the cozy library
open 24 hours although it was filled with German language
books and journals. The computers and keyboards placed
there were only geared for German users. But a Hapag Lloyd
spokesperson assured me that this will change as the ship
attracts more English-speaking passengers and the library
offers more bilingual books, magazines and computers adapted
for the North American passenger.
The Art Gallery near the dining rooms
has exhibits of contemporary art. On my cruise, the German
artist on display, Jan Rieckhoff, was available to discuss
his work and also gave lectures on art. There is also
an abundance of art to be seen throughout the ship whether
it is majestic wall murals, sculpture placed where one
least expects it, and other oil and watercolor works of
art placed throughout the vessel.
During the day when the ship is out at sea, the
boutique stores open with their high-end wares. Here one
can salivate over the $30,000 diamond ring displayed by
Wempe Jewelers in their boutique or one can buy a designer
outfit. Or you could just shop for a souvenir, which falls
into my category. Since we were cruising along the East
Coast, the shops were only opened once when we were beyond
the three-mile limit at sea.
Families are encouraged to take trips on the Europa. There
is a new playroom for children equipped with the usual
equipment. Special children programs are arranged during
school-vacation periods and when the ship is in port,
there are special excursions geared for children under
the eye of experienced counselors, thus freeing the parents
to be able to do their own sightseeing. Nannies are also
available for babysitting.
 With
all the rich food ingested while on a cruise, there is
the Sport Deck. Here the Spa Futuresse Center offers sauna,
steam bath, massage rooms, Japanese bath and solarium.
During the ship’s recent refurbishment, a new enlarged
fitness center with treadmills, cycles, cross trainers,
and weights was installed overlooking the Lido Deck pool
in mid ship. There is a small workout area attached and
personal-training sessions are available.
Other recreational activities include shuffleboard,
a jogging track, and an extensive golf-training area that
includes a golf simulator, video analysis, two tee-offs,
and a putting green.
The Magrodome swimming pool is quite long
for a ship pool at 56.7 ft in length (longer than my health-club
pool) and is open in all weather. Passengers sunning along
the pool can be sprayed with Evian water to cool off from
the sun’s scorching rays. And drinks from the pool bar
are served in glassware.—no paper or plastic cups or utensils
used here. In fact, I never saw plastic used on board
the ship.
When in port the ship concierge can arrange
exciting land excursions for a fee to tour the area. During
my cruise, we visited the port cities of Philadelphia
and its wealth of history; Baltimore with its wonderfully
restored seafront and outstanding aquarium where I saw
a dolphin show and did some art-gallery hopping. Then
there were stops at Charleston and Savannah, the belles
of the Southeastern seaboard cities. The ship’s very efficient
Concierge desk had interesting land tours lined up for
a fee and lots of pamphlets and maps if doing your own
thing was your choice.
Because of her size, the Europa is able
to travel to areas not visited by the larger vessels,
and that means navigating the river waterways not available
to large ships. In addition, expertly captained Zodiacs
(small inflatable vessels) are used to take passengers
to remote areas and provide informative background about
an area’s natural beauty. Itineraries on the Europa vary
as the ship makes her way around the world. “Europa travels
to remarkable places and we work very hard to discover
aspects of those places to enhance the experience,” says
Managing Director Ahrens. “Itineraries are planned for
out of the way places near around Tahiti, Japan, Australia,
India, the Mideast, the Greek Islands, the Mediterranean,
East and Western Europe and North, Central and South America.”
In addition, a variety of land activities,
including pre-arranged small-group excursions are available.
In addition, special golf excursions as part of the Europa
Gold & Cruise program are available, while portside
pickup and drop off for chauffer and rental car service
is available in almost half of the ports visited worldwide.
A mark of a good ship is the medical facility
available on board. On the Europa, there is a staff of
two doctors with nurse assistants, and the latest equipment
to deal with a variety of medical problems. If you are
unfortunate to come down with an illness, you can rest
assured that the staff is very competent. I met with the
two attending physicians who showed me their facilities,
which include several rooms to accommodate ill passengers,
though most are sent back to their cabin with the proper
medication. Minor operations can be performed as well
as dental work. In extreme cases, where the patient has
to be moved to an on-land institution, there is a helipad
on the ship for the evacuation.
I found the crew constantly spiffing up the ship,
whether it was repainting the exterior where the sea had
made its mark or improving some aspect of the interior.
The teak-wood decks were spotless. Painters were keeping
the ship’s white exterior tip top while other crew were
washing the salt spray off the massive windows in the
public rooms. I must say this was the cleanest ship I
have been on in some time.
The ship handles herself very well cruising
at 21k knots. There is no vibration felt. However, I felt
a slight sway when the ship was in choppy waters.
The high-ceiling public rooms reflect the
high standard of interior décor. Outstanding are the fresh
floral arrangements throughout the ship, incorporating
unusual flora. All tables in the dining areas were graced
with fresh flowers. The four-foot high bouquet of unusual
pods and lilies gracing the entrance to the Europa restaurant
was breathtaking. There were no artificial plants anywhere
on the ship.
Smoking is allowed on board in certain areas.
Since this is a European ship, there are more smoking
passengers. But surprisingly, the presence of smoke was
marginable.
The currency used on board is the Euro.
Beverages, boutique purchases and land excursions are
quoted in Euros. All purchased services and extras such
as wine and liquor are automatically charged to your room
card. At the end of the cruise, you can check the bill
for its accuracy either on your in-room TV monitor or
at the Concierge desk.
Hapag Lloyd has expanded the ship’s schedule
of English-language sailings to accommodate a wider US
market. (See itineraries.) “One of the biggest secrets in the
cruise industry is that the Hapag Lloyd ships have been
catering to English-speaking passengers for some years,”
says Ahrens, (A minimum of 15 English speaking passengers
is needed for a bilingual sailing.) “The staff on Hapag
Lloyd cruises is already bilingual. But, Ahrens added,
“creating a bilingual trip means adding further staff,
offering programs such as lectures and entertainment and
making arrangements for excursions that are specially
skewed toward a US audience when the ship reaches its
port destination. Our desire is not for the greatest number
of passengers that we can attract, but the most satisfied
ones.” Statistically, the Europa enjoys a high rate of
passenger return.
Passengers from North America will not be
disappointed with a cruise on this vessel. Despite a reticence
by the German-speaking passengers to mix with their English
speaking counterparts, everyone is polite. There are exceptions
of course, and friendships are established.
The quality and service found on this gorgeously
appointed vessel is what gives her the five-star plus
rating by cruise critic Douglas Ward, author of the annual
Berlitz Guide to Ocean Cruising. Ward, As he points out
in his guide, “the extras provided and the meticulous
attention to personal service and comfort” of the passenger
is what the ship is all about. Ward, who was on board
the ship during my cruise, was keen to point out to me
all the details of service not found on most ships. Look
at underneath the bar, he told me in the Piano Lounge.
“Notice the hooks placed beneath the bar for a lady’s
handbag or how your drink is served on a linen doily on
a silver tray. It’s the little details,’’ he says,
“that make the difference.”
Yes the details and the service do make
a difference. After all, not many ships treat their passengers
like royalty on a cruise. But who am I to say? Take a
cruise on this beautifully appointed ship and find out
for yourself.
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