The fifteen-day cruise I took in September touched on 10 ports, sailing three seas before ending in a glorious cruise up the Grand Canal in Venice. All of the ports on my itinerary—Lisbon; Funchal, Madeira; Casablanca, Morocco; Cartagena and Barcelona in Spain; Toulon, France; Portoferraio, Elba; Olbia, Sardinia; Catania and Palermo in Sicily; and Venice had English-language shore excursions with certified tour guides who gave us a brief history of the country in addition to information about the historic sites visited. (Please note that there is a hefty discount on English-speaking land tours if paid for at the time of your cruise booking.)
In ports where it would involve a long walk to the town, a regularly scheduled shuttle bus was provided by Deilmann.
Here is a capsulation of our cruise’s port calls and websites to click for more information on the regions.
Lisbon, Portugal
The capital of Portugal is a sprawling city rich in naval history. It possesses a modern airport, and airport transfers to the ship are arranged by Deilmann Cruises at the time of your cruise booking. An important port for centuries, Lisbon is situated on the banks of the Tagus estuary, ten miles from the Atlantic Ocean. Important sites to visit in Lisbon are the José de Azeredo Perdigão Modern Art Center located in the charming Eduardo VII Park that also contains the Gulbenkian Museum of Classical Art. The city’s old Belém section reflects much of the country’s maritime glory with imposing architecture such as the San Jerónimos monastery and the Palácio de Belém. As the ship departs from the dock and proceeds down the Tagus River to the Atlantic, one is introduced to the history of the area as the ship’s narrator points out the important sites along the river bank with historic comment.
Lisbon is a wonderful city and it is wise if you plan to embark on a cruise from here, that you arrive a day or two earlier to imbibe some of its culture. Portugal is noted for its wines and food as well as the soulful fado music found in the clubs. Website: www.visitportugal.com
Funchal, Madeira
Following a day at sea, we arrived at Madeira, the largest of the five volcanic islands in the south Atlantic that together form the subtropical Portuguese province, enjoys a moderate climate year round and a wide variety of flora. It is also noted for its production of Madeira wine and a visit to Blandys, a major producer, for a tasting of the four different Madeira wines should not be missed.
The Cathedral Se is in the center of Funchal and is untouched since its construction in the late 1400s. Near the cathedral is the mercado dos lavradores, the covered market that sells fresh fruits, vegetables and fish.
In the nearby town of Monte, the Monte toboggan run is quite popular with visitors who are given rides for a fee in wicker baskets mounted on wooden skis that are steered by toboggan drivers who push and steer the sleds down the two-mile descent on cobbled streets, using their rubber-soled boots as brakes.
The Pico de Arieiro is Madeira’s third highest mountain and it takes nearly an hour’s drive to reach the peak from Funchal. Walking trails provide breathtaking views of the stark scenery although the views are often covered by fog rolling in from the sea. It is absolutely quiet up there save for the chatter of the visitors but one felt you could almost touch the heavens.
Not far from the Funchal dock (there is no terminal) is Reid’s Hotel, an Orient-Express hotel harking back to the pre-World War II Europe. Perched on a promontory the establishment commands spectacular views and it is a special place for lunch or dinner.
Shuttle buses were provided to Funchal but it is only a brisk 20-minute walk from the ship’s pier. When the ship departed at midnight, the amphitheater shape of the city ablaze with lights left quite a memorable impression on this passenger.
More information at www.visitportugal.com.
Casablanca, Morocco
Another day at sea brought us to this thriving city of 3.5 million inhabitants—the third largest city in Africa. It is a hub of spacious avenues spreading out in a star formation and lined with white- or bisque-colored buildings of Art Deco or neo-Moorish styles. For the most part, streets were clean and taxi rates were reasonable accepting euros or dollars as payment.
One area to visit is the Medina-the old section of the city that is surrounded by a defense wall. Another is the Mosque Hassans II, the third biggest mosque in the world with a 200-meter high minaret. Inside the marble interior has a retractable ceiling of teakwood and gold leaf design. The interior holds 20,000 male prayers and an additional 5,000 women who are relegated to the balconies. Outside, the esplanade in front of the mosque offers a place for an additional 80,000 worshippers.
Place Mohammed V square is the middle of the city and marks the beginning of the city’s gracious boulevard. Nearby, the Hyatt Hotel has a bar called Casablanca with a bar and furniture that replicate Rick’s Bar in the 1940s’film Casablanca. Across from the hotel is the government-run marketplace selling a variety of wares and souvenirs.
The land excursion tour is suggested here if this is your first time in Casablanca as it will bring you to the important sites and somewhat protect you from the pesky venders that can press you for money for their wares in the marketplace. One followed me to the tour bus trying to sell a caftan for $100 but in his desperation reduced it to $10. Or one could be asked for payment for “services” such as taking a photo of colorfully dressed locals, as happened to me in Place Mohammed V.
The city has no natural harbor nor a ship terminal. Our ship docked in a military compound alongside a man-built jetty to accommodate vessels. So to get to the city proper, one had to use the shuttle bus the ship provided. More information on Morocco at http://www.tourisme-marocain.com/english/indexen.htm
Cartagena, Spain
During a day at sea we passed through the Strait of Gibraltar and entered the Mediterranean to reach our next destination Cartagena. The city is located in southern Spain in Murcia province, and is encircled by mountains. Its port is one of Spain’s principal naval bases. The city contains the remains of old walls, a castle thought to have been constructed in Carthaginian times, and a church dating back to the 13th century.
Nearby Murcia contains the Monastery of San Jerónimos now the San Antonio Catholic University and referred to as the Murcian Escorial. The city’s ornate Santa Maria Cathedral with its Choir and Velez Chapel (one of 23 in the cathedral) is a sculptural wonder; and its 302-ft tower is Murcia’s landmark. The building was constructed on the land occupied by the old Arabic mosque. Work began in 1385 and was finished in 1467. With the passing of the centuries, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque embellishments were added that turned the cathedral into an eclectic work. Around the cathedral are interesting pedestrian walkways with upscale shops and modern eateries. Try to visit the Salzillo Museum, named after the Spanish sculptor Francisco Salzillo who lived in Murcia, to see his magnificent Easter sculptures. Also Murcia’s Museum of Art contains many works by Spain’s classical artists. Bilingual website: www.murciaciudad.com
Barcelona, Spain
This is Spain’s second largest city and the capital of Catalonia Province. The city has certainly been spruced up since I last saw it years ago as it was the site of the 1992 Summer Olympics. Highlights are Antoni Gaudi’s magnificent Sagrado Familia Family Cathedral—still a work in progress—the Park Guell and his modernistic buildings near the Placa Catalunya. Other art musts are the Picasso Museum, the Antoni Tàpies Foundation near Placa Catalunya, and the Catalan Art National Museum.
Mount Tabor is the highest point in the city and here is the important Cathedral de Santa Eulàlia dating back to medieval times that is located in the historic Gothic Quarter.
The Ramblas is the principal boulevard and it is lined with shops, restaurants and flower markets. I found it best to divert from the bustling street and tour the narrow winding streets of the city with wonderful craft shops, restaurants and piazzas. The Parque de la Ciudadela offers some great vistas of Barcelona and its port.
One of Europe’s largest aquariums is located in the Mall di Espagna with its modern glass and steel building Maremagnum contains stores, restaurants, art galleries and a cinema overlooking the sea.
The modern port is a distance from most of the important sites to visit so it is best to either opt for a bus tour that can skirt some of the gridlock found in the city when three or four megaships are docked at the same time. After the tour, there are regularly scheduled buses provided by Deilmann to bring you back to the ship if you wish to remain longer in the city. More information available at www.spain.info/TourSpain
Toulon, France
This important seaport and the country’s principal naval base only 70 miles from Marseille was heavily damaged in World War II but today it is a bustling metropolis of 175,000 inhabitants. Surrounding Toulon are high wooded hills topped with old forts. Towering Mont Faron’s summit, which can be reached by a funicular from the city, has a magnificent vista of the surrounding area and also a wild-cat breeding center.
The ship docked within walking distance of the old sector of town in which the 11th century Ste Marie de la Seds Cathedral is the focal point. Nearby, there is a colorful farmers market (open in the mornings) where one can buy produce, flowers and leather goods. Charming bistros offer moules frites and Provencal dishes. In the newer section of the city, about a 20 minute walk from old sector, upscale stores such as Galeries Lafayette lure shoppers with their wares at good prices.
With its 19th century façade credited to sculptors Daumas and Montagne, the Opera House located in Place Victor Hugo and is France’s second largest, is noted for its excellent acoustics.
Near Toulon, the charming seaside village of Cassis is nestled between high cliffs and located on a half-moon bay. It is also known for its long narrow fjord-like inlets known as the Calanques. The town is popular with artists—Matisse spent many summers there capturing the beauty of its setting. Charming shops, street vendors selling their “designer clothes” and delectable confectionary shops make this a popular Provençal destination to visit. Website: http://us.franceguide.com/home.asp? Or www.visitprovence.com.
Portoferraio, Elba
The ship’s next stop was the Italian island of Elba. Portoferraio is the principal town of the island and guarded by ancient walls and forts, it lies at the head of a beautiful bay. The island has become famous as the place Bonaparte Napoleon was exiled to after his abdication in 1814. He ruled the island for the next ten months and is credited during his brief stay with making many improvements on Elba. One of several residences Napoleon had is the Villa dei Mulin in the upper part of town. The simple house with its formal terraced garden doubles as the Napoleon Museum that displays his personal library and various mementoes. Nearby a fortress containing tiny residences and lots of stray cats offers some lovely views. Along the waterfront where the shipped docked is a lovely promenade with shops and restaurants that circles the harbor.
The island has other interesting sites to visit. My bus excursion took us to the Roman ruins of Villa Romana della Grotte to see the ancient grottos and then on to Marina di Campo, which is located at the Gulf of Lacona and Campo, and where a 15th century tower dominates the harbor. After a walking tour through the town to buy souvenirs, we went on to Marciana Marina located at the foot of the granite massif Monte Capanne. The area’s crystalline waters are a natural draw for snorkelers and underwater photographers. More information on Elba at http://www.arcipelago.turismo.toscana.it/en/index.htm or http://www.enit.it/
Olbia, Sardinia
Sardinia is the largest island in the Mediterranean after Sicily and is a land of wind and sea-sculpted rocks. Olbia, where the ship docked, is a city of about 33,000. It features the Roman church of San Simplico dating from the 11th century. The Corso Umberto is a mile-long promenade with numerous shops and restaurants. There are ferry services from Olbia environs that allow visitors to go to the Italian mainland—about two hours to Tuscany or Rome (Cittavechia).
About a half hour’s drive north of Olbia is Costa Smeralda noted for its harsh granite rocks and sandy beaches. Developed by the Aga Khan, the yachting port of Cervo is the playground of the rich and powerful. One sees magnificent villas perched on the granite cliffs surrounding the village that are owned by such lights as Russia’s Alexander Putin or the Aga Khan. Plenty of pricey hotels and even pricier boutiques line the beach front. The small church of Stella Maris in the town contains an El Greco painting.
Before arriving at Porto Cervo, our bus group stopped outside of Archazena to see the Nuraghe Albucciu, large prehistoric stone structures dating back to 1500 BC and thought to be built by the ancient Spanish tribes who wandered from Spain to Africa and Asia and returned to Spain via Sardinia.
Our tour guide pointed out, interestingly, that no chemicals are allowed on the island for agricultural purposes. Biological farming is prevalent, especially fish farms in the protected coves around the island breeding clams, mussels sea bream and sea bass.
I never toured Olbia which was in walking distance of the ship as we only had about five hours in port. More information on Sardinia at
http://www.enit.it/navgraficacomuni.asp?LANG=UK®ione=SARDEGNA
Palermo, Sicily
Our next destination was the Sicilian capital of Palermo. A major Italian seaport, the ship terminal is the most beautiful facility I have ever been through. All marble, the three-story building serves as a mini-mall for stores, internet café and municipal or port offices. It is only a short walk from there into the noisy, traffic-clogged Sicilian capital.
Palermo has had quite a history as evidenced by its architecture. It was founded by the Phoenicians, conquered by the Romans, came under Byzantine rule until 871 AD when the Saracens ruled until 1072 when it was conquered by the Normans.
Palermo became the capital under Roger II who took the title of King of Sicily. This great builder blended Norman architectural styles with decorative traditions of the Saracens and Byzantines. Later the Gothic style became prevalent in the 13th century. After more than three centuries of Spanish rule, the Bourbons of Naples gave Palermo its splendid Baroque frosting. Despite the prevalence of contrasting architectural styles, the city also has good deal of modern architecture, especially along the waterfront.
Architectural highlights include the Baroque basilica of San Giovanni degli Eremiti (St. John of the Hermits). The church was built with the help of Arab architects in 1132 and as a result, the church is crowned with pink domes. The late 12th century Cathedral is also a stew of different period styles. Built on the site of a former sixth century church it has a beautiful interior neo-Classical façade and contains the tombs of Emperor Frederick II and other rulers of the Hohenstaufen dynasty as well as Angevin and Aragonese rulers. Also on display in the Treasury is the imperial crown belonging to Constance of Aragon.
Earlier in the day, we visited the town of Monreale a few miles away, which has a splendid cathedral and monastery dating back to Norman times. Built by Norman King William II, the church has beautiful bronze doors with stylized figures carved by Pisano. The interior is adorned with marble, rich art and beautiful mosaics dating back to the 12th and 13th century. Next to the church are the Norman-styled cloisters that provide a peaceful setting. A beautiful fountain once used as a lavado by the Benedictine monks commands attention as do the details on the arches supporting the galleries around the courtyard. In the approach to the church many artisans sell beautiful ceramic items.
More information on Palermo at the multilingual site www.enit.it
Catania, Sicily
The capital of Catanian province, the city is situated at the foot of Mt Aetna on Sicily’s east coast. Architecturally it is an impressive city—one that was reconstructed after a massive earthquake in 1693 destroyed it. In the center of the city, the Piazza del Duomo contains the Town Hall on one end while n the other end is the impressive Duomo dedicated to the town’s patron saint St. Agatha. The 11th century Duomo was rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake and has an impressive façade by Vaccarini. To the left of the
Cathedral is the lovely church Badia di Sant’ Agata. In the middle of the piazza is the very impressive Fontana del’Elephante—a fountain in the shape of a lava-sculpted elephant carrying an Egyptian granite obelisk. Close by is another beautiful piece of civil architecture, the Palazzo Biscari with an ornately decorated façade of sculpted figures, cherubs, and scrolls on its south side. Elsewhere in the city is the Castello Usino, a stark 13th century castle with four towers that houses the Civil Museum. The city is a short walk from the ship.
The two-mile long Via Atnea is the city’s main shopping artery that is bordered by numerous churches and palaces and the Bellini Gardens, and gives a view of Mt. Etna.
One of Europe’s most famous and still active volcano, Mt. Etna is an hour’s drive away. Snow-capped for most of the year, Etna has a height of 3,330 meters (2.1 miles) and covers an elliptical area about 1400 kilometers (875 miles). The region around Etna is now a national park and from the village of Nicolosi below the summit, one can climb to the side craters. Often fog shrouded, as it was on our visit, it is a grim, eerie sight. For miles, lava from the 2001 eruption covered the land while the remains of ruined houses were a grim reminder of the damage the cascading lava can wreak. More information on Catania at www.enit.it.
Venice, Italy
During our last day at sea we passed through the Straits of Medina and cruised along Italy’s Adriatic coast towards Venice. Sadly, our fifteen day voyage was coming to a close. As the ship entered Venice, the Deutschland, because of her size, was able to sail up the nearly 2.5-mile-long, serpentine-shaped Grand Canal to introduce us to the beauty of Venice. To see Venice this way was an experience—not one you would have if traveling by train or plane to the city. I was awe-struck by the beauty of the unwinding vista before me. Some 200 Byzantine and Gothic palaces built between the 12th and 18th centuries are located along the Canal. At the Canal’s midpoint is the Rialto Bridge and what a sight to sail beneath it. This popular tourist site with its double row of shops was built by Antonio da Ponte and opened in 1591. This is the sixth version of the original which was built of stone and it marks one of the busiest shopping areas of Venice.
After docking, the ship tender took us to an area not far from the Piazza San Marco where our guide escorted us to the Basilica and the Palace of the Doges’ next to it. I was glad we had the tour as it avoided long lines at entry points to buy tickets besides getting an insider’s look into life during the glory days of the 1,0000-year long Venetian Republic—a time when great art and architecture made the city what it is today.
Piazza San Marco is the heart of the city and unfortunately very touristy. Two high granite columns crowned with statues of Saint Mark and Saint Theodore dominate one end of the square while galleries and pricey cafes ($20 for coffee) surround the piazza. But the area is overwhelmed by visitors and pigeons, which lessens the experience of being there. On the other end of the piazza is the Basilica of San Marco.
The basilica combines Byzantine and Western styles, as it is built in the shape of a Greek cross and crowned by a large dome that is flanked by four smaller domes of different dimensions and placed on the arms of the cross. The luminous mosaics of the interior depict scenes from the New Testament. The relics of St. Mark, the city’s patron saint, lie under the Palo d’Oro (Golden Altar).
Next to the basilica and towering over San Marco is the 325-foot high Campanile (bell tower) that has become the city’s symbol.
To the right of San Marco sits the Palazzo Ducale symbolizing Venetian power and glory of the past. For nearly 1000 years, this magnificent palace was the seat of the Republic and the residence of the Doges and housed law courts and a prison. Original work on the palace began in the 12th century but was further embellished over the next 300 years. It remains almost exactly as it was in its heyday. The Sala del Maggior Consiglio (Great Council Chamber) was used by Venetians to discuss state policies and elect the doges. Tintoretto’s Paradise hangs here along with portraits of all 76 doges. Throughout the palace the works of the great Italian artists cover the walls and ceilings.
The famous Bridge of Sighs connects the palace with the prison and owes its name to the legend that prisoners would utter their final tormented sigh when they saw Venice as they passed over the bridge and looked from a window on their way to their fatal meeting with death.
There was not enough time to visit Murano where the famous red glass is made, or visit art museums such as the Peggy Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art, and the Venice Biennale of Art that was being held nearby.
Frankly, St. Mark’s Square was too touristy and crowded for my taste. And that was my impression the first time I set foot on the square some years ago. But when I quickly ventured into the neighboring area to find a pharmacy before returning to the ship, I did see a different Venice that tourists often do not see—lovely stores, quaint streets and bridges over canals, and friendly Venetians.
Wisely, many of Deutschland’s cruise passengers opted to stay on in Venice for a day or two after disembarkation in order to get a better feel of the city and its people. And in hindsight I would do that as well the next time I visit Venice by ship. Deilmann Cruises can arrange for post-cruise stays, often at savings when booking a cruise.
(More information on Venice can be found at http://www.enit.it.)