M/Y Callisto at sea
M/Y Callisto: How Big is ‘Small’?
By Roger J. Ritchie
The motor yacht Callisto, this writer experienced this winter, is one of the smallest of the small cruisers operated by world class travel organizations such as its Travel Dynamics International (TDI) of New York, which owns the Callisto. The ship, registered in Greece, has a capacity of just 34 passengers. She is, indeed, a very comfy vessel with good food and one that operates unique itineraries. TDI also operates a 114-passenger vessel—Corinthian II—on similarly information-intensive itineraries in the Mediterranean and South America.
The driving force for the Callisto’s itineraries is a desire to explore and experience the interesting and worthwhile coastal sites of Europe and North Africa. The Travel Dynamics people studiously plan trips to satisfy the curious (I might say also—fairly vigorous) traveler, seeking sites and locations less traveled, while accompanied by educational information-givers. The accompanying travel-along experts are always of very superior credentials. Many of the small ships – like Callisto—are frequently partially or totally adopted on a voyage- by-voyage basis by an affinity group, mostly from major universities, and cultural institutions. This adds to the conviviality and frequently very pleasant “house party” atmosphere on board.
Close to the Action ...
The trim size of Callisto (at 165 feet long) means that the facilities onboard—dining room, lounge/bar and the sundeck—are all a few steps away at any time, and the tender or dockside is also an easy transfer from one’s cabin. The forgotten sunglasses or sun block lotion is never too far away for quick retrieval!
On my recent one-week cruise, which was the latter half of a two week Travel Dynamics International West African exploration tour through Mali and on to Senegal and The Gambia, the Callisto visited three of the huge rivers flowing into the Atlantic at this Western-most part of Africa. Two rivers in Senegal – the Casamance and the Saloum— and the Gambia River , which is the heart of The Gambia. Africa’s smallest nation—The Gambia—is a sliver of land surrounded by Senegal. When anchored in these great rivers, M/Y Callisto becomes a little island of luxury in a rather undeveloped area of the world!
Luxury is relative ….
Can “small” be luxurious? Well, yes, in the way of the quietly stressless life on board—but at the sacrifice of the cabin size and recreational facilities of the larger ships. Perhaps the M/Y Callisto—with its crew of 18 caring for a maximum of 34 passengers—is of the “boutique” category of cruiser with its yacht-like passenger capacity and personal service. I have found that the charms of sailing into exotic (and shallow) waters, while enjoying the yachting lifestyle, bring the Callisto experience clearly up the “luxury” rating.
The cabins …
The Callisto cabins are no more than the best offering of any luxury yacht in your local marina. With twin or double beds, the trimly-sized cabins are attached to bathrooms (showers only) that are very small. But, the cabin amenities are neatly sandwiched in—with closets, a mini bar, and safe, along with the TV and DVD player built-in to the desk/closet installation.
Callisto’s cabins are on two decks. The upper level—one steep stairway down from the lounge and dining room level are somewhat larger—just a few inches here and there—but do enjoy large windows. Eleven cabins are on this level. Down another steep companionway, the lower passenger cabins (six twins) with port holes feature extra-trim shower rooms. But, all cabins enjoy the amenity of white Frette dressing gowns and bed linens, and fragrant boutique toiletries from Greece. The beds are snowy-white duvet covered and the cabin’s mini-fridge is kept stocked with bottled spring water.
The spaces for leisure …
On the main deck is the lounge/bar and the dining room with a partially sheltered deck to the stern. This aft deck is just the spot for outdoor dining–when suitable–or for pre-dinner drinks. Even explorers enjoy a cocktail! Drinks are charged to an onboard account for end-of-voyage settlement (along with any telephone or internet time.
Outside stairs lead from this area up to the uppermost Phoebe Deck where there is a cozy Library and outside, chairs for sunning beside the hot-tub. The deckchairs are teak and the padding conducive to some lazing—if you play hooky from the well-managed shore excursions. The small ship does not provide deck refreshment service, but nothing is far away. The top-deck Library is a small glass-enclosed room with two computer terminals for email/Internet access and cushiony seating for digging into a good book or consulting an atlas from the shelves. Walking forward to the Bridge on Phoebe Deck, guests will find that visitors are always welcomed by Callisto’s Greek officers.
The cuisine …
The Callisto exploration voyage is no sacrifice in the gustatory department. The kitchen galley provides tasty, fresh dishes throughout the day with two choices at dinner time and a readiness to go “off the menu” for special diet requirements. I found the food excellent and the party of travelers around me had no complaints. While the style of cuisine was Continental, in the American sense, the occasional Greek selection was actually a treat for most passengers. Table wines are included with the meals furthering the “house party” atmosphere.
The “go see it” experience …
The Callisto’s modest draught and maneuverability is the key to the special charms of small-ship travel. Its ability to slip into a yachting marina or tie up to a town quay is a highlight of the small-ship experience.
Just one vehicle can collect the entire group of passengers from the end of the gangway and have the exploration underway with the minimum of fuss. This inner-harbor docking also means that taking a stroll from the ship’s gangway is usually pleasant and convenient. Ship-wide public-address announcements are limited to the reminders of a soon-to-leave tour or an impending tender embarkation
For the West African river town calls, Callisto mostly anchored in mid-stream and provided easy access to local launches for the short trip to the shore, a discovery trip or to a “birding” excursion. The ship’s marina-style stern offers a water-level stage for transferring to the local boats (in the case of Senegal—they are called pirogues.) All activities are included in a Travel Dynamics trip, right down to the tips for boat drivers and local tour assistants.
Not for the anti-social …
While not crowded, the Callisto is certainly social in atmosphere and makes no sense for an insular-type traveler. The dining room seating is casual at the four larger tables, but a table-for-two is offered for those in the mood for a more private dining. The room always buzzes with traveler’s tales and talk of the day’s discoveries. It’s a conviviality that endears the ship to its passenger... and is quite suitable for those traveling alone.
Let the explorations Begin …
Travel Dynamics International offers the Callisto’s voyages directly to its individual patrons, as well as working with the alumni organizations of major universities. The passenger mix varies from voyage to voyage with social success seemingly consistent. I had previously experienced the ship’s social success on a Greek Island voyage. The TDI folk take the trip-planning process very seriously, with full days of shore trips and excursions designed to maximize the travelers’ exposure to the ports of call. The use of the word “port” is inappropriate for many Callisto’s itineraries—as many explorations originate at shipside or riverbank.
Summary …
Small-ship cruising à la Callisto is a charming alternative to larger vessels with their spas and dance-floors. But, for many travelers the ship’s small scale is a major draw, irregardless of the interesting exploration itineraries.
The Callisto—in West Africa* and anywhere else she sails—can be relied upon to be as good as it gets for creature comforts and imaginative planning.
-- Roger J. Ritchie is a Contributing Editor for ShipsandCruises
*Callisto’s West African itinerary will be presented again in early 2008.
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